Credit: Retro Spectacle
A Collector's Guide to What Your Frames Are Made Of
Discover the materials used in vintage eyewear, from acetate and Optyl to rolled gold and Perspex. Learn how each material affects durability, comfort and collectability.
Material is the substance from which an object is made, and in a world of vintage eyewear, these materials play a huge role in how a frame looks, feels and lasts. When browsing our product descriptions, you'll come across a range of materials, some common and some rare. Others you won't see at all today due to safety or ethical reasons. This guide breaks down the key materials found in vintage glasses and sunglasses, helping you understand their history, benefits and unique characteristics.
Acetate
Acetate is by far the most common and most beloved material in vintage eyewear. First developed in 1914 and widely used from the 1930s onward, early acetate was known for being slightly brittle and not always colourfast. But it had big advantages: it was gentler on the skin and had excellent longevity.
By the 1950s, improved extrusion processes allowed for richer colours, patterns and marble effects. Many of today's most sought-after vintage were made from high quality acetate.
One of the world's best known producers is Mazzucchelli, an Italian family company established in 1849 and now in its sixth generation. Their acetates remain a benchmark for premium quality.
Credit: Retro Spectacle
Nina Ricci 1316 Vintage Designer Glasses
Epoxy Resin / Optyl
Optyl is a thermosetting plastic developed in 1968 by Wilhelm Anger. Unlike many plastics, it doesn't require a plasticiser, which means the material stays stable, lightweight, durable and hypoallergenic.
Optyl frames also hold their colour exceptionally well - another reason why they remain vibrant decades later.
It was commonly used by brands such as:
While it's less common in modern production due to cost, Optyl remains a hallmark of high-quality vintage eyewear.
Important: When adjusting Optyl frames, they must be heated to 80-120°C to avoid damage.
Perspex / Lucite
Perspex (or Lucite) was especially popular in the 1950s and 60s - particularly in dramatic cat-eye designs.
While visually striking, the material can be tricky to glaze and doesn't allow for extensive adjustment, which is why expert handling is essential.
We strongly recommend that any Perspex frames are glazed by out in-house technician, who has years of experience working with this delicate material.
Rolled Gold
Rolled gold dates back to the 19th century and is made by fusing a base metal, often copper, brass or silver, between thin sheets of real gold. The metals are heat bonded and rolled to create a layered, durable material.
Typically rolled gold frames contain 5%-10% real gold, and they are generally hypoallergenic, making them a great option for people with metal sensitivities.
Gold Plated
Gold plated eyewear uses a much thinner layer of gold, electrochemically applied to a base metal. Although the gold layer is finer than that of rolled gold, gold plated frames were widely used in high-end eyewear from brands such as:
These frames offer elegance and luxury with a more subtle use of gold.
Credit: Retro Spectacle
Tiffany Lunettes 129 Designer Glasses
Tortoiseshell (Historical Use Only)
Natural tortoiseshell, taken from the hawksbill see turtle was used in eyewear until 1973, when CITES (the Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species) thankfully banned its use.
We do have some authentic antique tortoiseshell frames in our private preservation collection, but they are not for sale.
What has carried through the decades is the pattern. Today, we call it brown mottle, a timeless design now safely reproduced using acetate.
Credit: Retro Spectacle
Metal
Vintage eyewear also features a range of metal materials, each with specific advantages.
Titanium
- Lightweight
- Hypoallergenic
- Extremely Durable
- Resistant to corrosion
Stainless Steel
A little heavier that titanium but still strong, reliable and comfortable.
Composition Metals
These blends often contain nickel, which can cause irritation for those with sensitivities. They're used in many vintage metal frames, unless stated otherwise.
